Expat Knowledge Sharing - Month 4

Biking

Life in Florence became significantly more pleasant and simple as soon as my butt hit the seat of my bike.  No more long walks to get places, no more trying to figure out buses and trains.  Just me and a little peddling.  Given, there are a few downsides (occasionally arriving places with a sweaty back, having to take the time to lock and unlock the bike) but it's 100% worth it.  

The city is unbelievably easy to navigate on a bike.  No helmets required and I can see why.  There is this unspoken level of respect for individuals on bikes.  Significantly more so than one who is driving or walking.  People slow, wait, get out of the way and respect your space.  All the common courtesy missing in other elements of the Florentine's behavior is made up for in the treatment of bikers!

A few words of wisdom:  

1) If you don't own one already, buy the cheapest possible bike you can find.  The streets are flat & you don't need fancy.

2) If you already own a bike, buy the nicest more convenient bike lock you can find.

3) Buy a basket.  You will end up using your bike for small trips to lug large things- i.e. shopping bags.

4) You don't need to follow the one way street rules, but be conscious of your space!

5) You can take your bike on the train, just stay in the entry & exit cabins between cars, and take the 1st car.

Esselunga Delivers!

One of the main grocery store chains here will deliver your groceries for a nominal fee.  Given the lack of parking space and inconvenience of the grocery stores, this is a spectacular deal and a WONDERFUL time saver.  They are cheap, prompt and who knew it was so easy to grocery shop online!!

Here's the link

Italian Language Class

There are a plethora of Italian language classes to choose from in Florence.  Choosing the right class is difficult, and important.  You want a class that challenges you, but doesn't consume all of your time.  A class that doesn't exceed 2-3 hours a day (my opinion of the average mind's language capacity for a day - in a classroom, that is) that also allows for time to get out and practice.  A class that also helps to form community so you're meeting new people and engaged in conversation.  A class with professors and classmates who care.  I found a school offering classes that meets all of these criteria.  

The school: Gorgio La Pira ( Centro Internazionale Studenti)

Gelato

Again, with so many to choose from, where do you start and where do you go when you need to be GUARANTEED creamy, sweet deliciousness?!

In the city center:  

Grom - http://www.grom.it/

No crazy/fancy flavors, just basic ingredients, small but decadent portions and all natural spectacular flavor. 

Outside the city center: 

Medici - http://www.gelateriademedici.com/

There is no better Gelato in the city of Florence.  This I guarantee.  You will not be disappointed.  

Appertivos

Free food with your "Happy Hour"?!  What a brilliant Florentine Tradition!  You pay a little more than the average price for your drink, and the bar will also include a free buffet bar so you don't have to leave to get dinner.  The food is light, but often delicious.  Here are a few top recommendations (click on the name to get to the website):

Noir (near Ponte Vecchio)

The Green Store (near Campo di Marti)

Moyo (near Stanta Croce)

Oibo (near Stanta Croce)

Good Luck!

The little fast man

Last Saturday I ran a 10k road race through the streets of the center of Florence.  There was a kicker- the race started at 9pm.  It was called "Notturna di San Giovanni" (the night of San Giovanni).  It was the 70th annual event!  This had to have been one of the oldest races I've participated in.  Besides being a beautiful experience racing through the streets as the sun set over the Arno, I was given the gift of a little man I wanted to briefly write about here.  

About 3K into the race, I came up on a man who was slightly shorter than I and about 20 years older.  When I first came up on him, he sped up just a little bit.  I was used to this in racing- men speeding up once I gain on them (ego) but usually they let me go once I keep the pace (wanting to return to their own comfortable race pace).  But within minutes I could tell that this man was running along with me, comfortably, simply to run with me (or to see if I could keep up the pace that I was maintaining! (about 6:40 min/miles)).  We ended up running/racing the majority of the course together.  There were times when he would start to slip and I would surge in front of him, silently looking back over my shoulder to encourage him to come back up besides me.  At various points, he would do the same for me.  With about 1/2 a mile left, I started to feel the race and was dragging.  The lactic acid was building in my legs and my feet felt like little bricks I was dragging along with me (the end of the race had come! OUCH!). I didn't know the course so I wasn't sure of how much race I had left!  We turned what seemed like a final straight away and you could tell the little man had steam left.  But he wouldn't go without me.  For the first time, he looked back and me and we made eye contact and he waved me on to keep up with him.  He yelled "Andiamo!" (let's go!) and vigorously gave me a thumbs up encouraging me to stay at his side.  As we crossed the finish line, he purposely slowed his final steps to allow me to finish before him.  A perfect gentleman.  

When we finished, and tried to exchange words, it was clear he didn't speak English.  I was so exhausted that my Italian efforts were futile.  Instead, we relented and gave one another hug and double cheek kiss.  He said something to me in Italian with his hand on my shoulder, looking at me proudly.  In English I said, "Thank you.  Thank you so much.  In 20 years I also hope to be as impressive as you are.  And always as kind."  

Cantina Sabrosa

Via dell' Agnolo 91r

Florence, Italy

055 242 645

Type: Latin Fusion

Food: C+

Hit or miss.  Some of the meat dishes were right on: well salted, tender with a good combination of spices.  In some of the dishes, they forgot to add flavor.  Stick with  the more basic meat selections: mixed grill, burritos, tacos.  Stay away from the vegetarian dishes and nachos (also forgot the flavor ticket).  Ask for salt up front, remind them not to be stingy on the spice and keep drinking- it'll help wash the lack of flavor down.  

Service: B-

They tried, they really did.  But they appeared understaffed and scattered.  The waitress confused 2/6 orders and forgot to bring one dish all together.  They were extremely friendly and polite, but unfortunately, that doesn't  make up for food not being in our bellies.  

Ambiance: B- 

You could tell they were going for bright and lively latin: Mexican fiesta meets Spanish tapas bar type of feel.  But what they got was too much light, uncomfortable seating and  lack of distinction.  We appreciated the colors and festive latin music, but pull back a little: turn down the light and ease up on the background noise.  

Booze: C+ 

Strong drinks, great selection, lots of ice, delicious Sangria, but they don't know how to do a margarita.  How can a primarily Mexican food restaurant not know how to do a very basic margarita on the rocks?  Margarita martini?  Uh, no.  Mojito with dark rum?  Not so much.    

Overall, great concept in Florence and we appreciated the diversity of the meal (not always easy to find decent Italian food alternatives), but didn't hit any of the categories on the nose.