Expat Knowledge Sharing - Month 4

Biking

Life in Florence became significantly more pleasant and simple as soon as my butt hit the seat of my bike.  No more long walks to get places, no more trying to figure out buses and trains.  Just me and a little peddling.  Given, there are a few downsides (occasionally arriving places with a sweaty back, having to take the time to lock and unlock the bike) but it's 100% worth it.  

The city is unbelievably easy to navigate on a bike.  No helmets required and I can see why.  There is this unspoken level of respect for individuals on bikes.  Significantly more so than one who is driving or walking.  People slow, wait, get out of the way and respect your space.  All the common courtesy missing in other elements of the Florentine's behavior is made up for in the treatment of bikers!

A few words of wisdom:  

1) If you don't own one already, buy the cheapest possible bike you can find.  The streets are flat & you don't need fancy.

2) If you already own a bike, buy the nicest more convenient bike lock you can find.

3) Buy a basket.  You will end up using your bike for small trips to lug large things- i.e. shopping bags.

4) You don't need to follow the one way street rules, but be conscious of your space!

5) You can take your bike on the train, just stay in the entry & exit cabins between cars, and take the 1st car.

Esselunga Delivers!

One of the main grocery store chains here will deliver your groceries for a nominal fee.  Given the lack of parking space and inconvenience of the grocery stores, this is a spectacular deal and a WONDERFUL time saver.  They are cheap, prompt and who knew it was so easy to grocery shop online!!

Here's the link

Italian Language Class

There are a plethora of Italian language classes to choose from in Florence.  Choosing the right class is difficult, and important.  You want a class that challenges you, but doesn't consume all of your time.  A class that doesn't exceed 2-3 hours a day (my opinion of the average mind's language capacity for a day - in a classroom, that is) that also allows for time to get out and practice.  A class that also helps to form community so you're meeting new people and engaged in conversation.  A class with professors and classmates who care.  I found a school offering classes that meets all of these criteria.  

The school: Gorgio La Pira ( Centro Internazionale Studenti)

Gelato

Again, with so many to choose from, where do you start and where do you go when you need to be GUARANTEED creamy, sweet deliciousness?!

In the city center:  

Grom - http://www.grom.it/

No crazy/fancy flavors, just basic ingredients, small but decadent portions and all natural spectacular flavor. 

Outside the city center: 

Medici - http://www.gelateriademedici.com/

There is no better Gelato in the city of Florence.  This I guarantee.  You will not be disappointed.  

Appertivos

Free food with your "Happy Hour"?!  What a brilliant Florentine Tradition!  You pay a little more than the average price for your drink, and the bar will also include a free buffet bar so you don't have to leave to get dinner.  The food is light, but often delicious.  Here are a few top recommendations (click on the name to get to the website):

Noir (near Ponte Vecchio)

The Green Store (near Campo di Marti)

Moyo (near Stanta Croce)

Oibo (near Stanta Croce)

Good Luck!

Monaco - Extravagance on Steroids

Last weekend Mike and I took a little three day trip to Monte Carlo, Monaco.  We wanted to get out of the country, see a new place and have a completely new experience (oh and get a little sun and sea time while we were at it).  We accomplished all three.  Although I can see it's allure, Monaco is most definitely not my cup of tea.  

The location is spectacular: set directly on the water with high jetting mountains towering right up above it.  The mountains capture the clouds leaving Monaco flushed with sunshine ~90% of the time.  The city is built in to the low lying cliffs at the base of this mountain that lead in to the Mediterranean.  It's as if there shouldn't be a city there at all because of the rugged setting.  But there it is- and it's hard to miss.  

Giant yachts decorate it's coast line each one larger and more grandiose then the last.  Every third car is a Mazarati, Lamberghini or Ferrari.  Ritzy hotels sparkle and suits are recommended at it's Casino.  You can't find a meal for less than 12 Euro- that gets you a McDonalad's Happy meal.  As Mike stated this weekend, it's where the rich come to not feel so guilty about being rich.   

I had a hard time with it all.  Why do you need THAT much?  Why does a person need to have 500K Euro machine to tote them around?  Or to spend 5 million on a yacht that is their 5th home?  Why not do something with the money that would more helpful and worthwhile?  I understand wanting nice things, delicious tastes and living in extravagance- but this much extravagance?  Too much.  Much too much.  I was turned off by it all.  I was the anti-tourist.  I wasn't inspired to explore...

Now all this being said, there were two wonderful parts:

1) The people:  despite the $$$, they were open, friendly, unpretentious and it was some of the best customer service I've ever received.  

2) The food.  Although expensive, it was DELICIOUS.  I'm including two mini- restaurant reviews below.  

All in all, go to see it- but DRIVE THROUGH it on the way to Nice or Provence from Italy.  Don't stay more than one night.  Check out the Casino, the castle, beautiful Yachts, fancy cars, have a meal or two and then be on your merry way. 

(Disclaimer: We meant to check out the Aquarium, which is supposed to be really good, but we never got there... it may be worth checking out)

Restaurant Reviews:

Miami Plage

promenade du Lavotto

MC 9800 Monaco

Type: Contemporary Eclectic

Food: B+

Beautiful presentation, fresh as fresh can be, nice mixture of land and sea options.  

Service: A-

Quick, friendly, accommodating and very casual.

Ambiance: A-

Who knew you could make a beach front setting so very comfortable!

Booze: B

Mike's Mojito was delicious.  My rose as recommended by the wait staff-  very fruity and flat.  The drinks (including wine selection) was overpriced (what a surprise!)

Cinque Terre Day Trip

Cinque Terre is a tourist destination extraordinaire.  It's a well known destination spot for individuals traveling through Tuscany.  But did you know you can do Cinque Terre in a 3/4 day trip (from Florence) including: have an amazing experience, see/eat your way through all 5 towns and get one hell of a workout in?  You can!  You need to prep yourself for quite a bit of physical activity (i.e. walking a HILLY 6 miles in a day).  But if you're game, here's an example of how (as experimented yesterday by me and my husband)...

10:30 - 12:30 Drive from Florence to Riomaggiore

This will be a quick and rather senic drive to and through La Spezia.  Bring some good tunes to keep you amped.

12:30 - 13:15 Park & walk from Riomaggiore (town #1) to Manarola (town #2) via the Via del' Amore

This can be tricky as parking fills up early in Riomaggiore.  You may be forced, as we were, to park way up the hill away from the town center.  Be prepared for the walk home when you're done, if this is the case.  This first town to town trek is an easy and paved path.  You'll get your first brethtaking views but it will be extremely crowded so if you're moving quickly, be prepared for the people dodging.  Make it a game and you're all set.  

13:15 - 14:15 Walk from Manarola (town #2) to Corniglia (town #3)

Similar to the first town to town walk, this will be a gradual and paved road.  Very crowded.  Be ready to dodge more people on the path.  Corniglia is the smallest of the 5 towns.  It's narrow windy streets seem like they would be fun to explore if you wanted to take a little more time to adventure there.  

14:15 - 15:45 Walk from Corniglia (town #3) to Vernazza (town #4)

And now it begins.  There are signifigantly less toursist on this part of the trek.  For very good reason.  It's longer, steep and the terrain is harder to navigate.  Wear good shoes (especially if it's raining) as there is loose gravel and rocks.  But it's worth it.  Both pictures included here I took from this part of the hike.  Take time to soak in the views and lush viniculture you pick your way through along the way.  

15:45 - 17:15 Treak from Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare (final town!)

This trek is very similar to the one listed above.  You'll have a very steep hill for the first 1.5k.  Suck it up and look forward to the top.  It's the best view you'll get all day.  Then enjoy the rest of the gradual windy downhill to Monterosso.  

17:15 - 20:00 Enjoy Monterosso!

Spending time in this charming little sea side town was 100% worth every kilometer trekked.  Cool off by taking a dip in the ocean.  Enjoy a prosecco or beer in one of the water side cafes or just wonder through the mellow but beautifully decorated streets.  I highly recommend Cantina di Mickey for dinner.  It's casual and will seat (and feed) you before 7.  Delicious.  Order anything with seafood and be sure to have a chilled local bottle of wine with it!

20:00 - 23:00 Take the train from Monterosso back to Riomaggiore, find your car and drive back to Florence!

Cantina Sabrosa

Via dell' Agnolo 91r

Florence, Italy

055 242 645

Type: Latin Fusion

Food: C+

Hit or miss.  Some of the meat dishes were right on: well salted, tender with a good combination of spices.  In some of the dishes, they forgot to add flavor.  Stick with  the more basic meat selections: mixed grill, burritos, tacos.  Stay away from the vegetarian dishes and nachos (also forgot the flavor ticket).  Ask for salt up front, remind them not to be stingy on the spice and keep drinking- it'll help wash the lack of flavor down.  

Service: B-

They tried, they really did.  But they appeared understaffed and scattered.  The waitress confused 2/6 orders and forgot to bring one dish all together.  They were extremely friendly and polite, but unfortunately, that doesn't  make up for food not being in our bellies.  

Ambiance: B- 

You could tell they were going for bright and lively latin: Mexican fiesta meets Spanish tapas bar type of feel.  But what they got was too much light, uncomfortable seating and  lack of distinction.  We appreciated the colors and festive latin music, but pull back a little: turn down the light and ease up on the background noise.  

Booze: C+ 

Strong drinks, great selection, lots of ice, delicious Sangria, but they don't know how to do a margarita.  How can a primarily Mexican food restaurant not know how to do a very basic margarita on the rocks?  Margarita martini?  Uh, no.  Mojito with dark rum?  Not so much.    

Overall, great concept in Florence and we appreciated the diversity of the meal (not always easy to find decent Italian food alternatives), but didn't hit any of the categories on the nose.